A new fire had flared up — the largest in California’s history. Dubbed the Tubbs fire, it spread from Napa County to Santa Rosa, jumped across Highway 101 in the middle of the night, and burned nearly 37,000 acres before it could be contained, killing 22 people and destroying more than 5,000 buildings, half of them homes. Winemakers like Jacobson, who is vice president for winemaking at Joel Gott Wines, felt the fire’s impact not only in the looming threat to their homes but also to their livelihoods. Months after evacuation orders were lifted, the region inched back to normalcy. Then winemakers began to detect smoke in their wine.